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REPERAGES # 87-2022 (free access) Seven more women’s watches that will try to win the next GPHG

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GREEK GENEVA Racer Time Diamond Sun


The Greco-Geneva brand expands its “Modern Times” collection with this chronograph Racer Time RT-008 Diamond Sun. Although robust, this watch remains light and comfortable to wear thanks to its very soft silicone strap, sculpted in the design of a supercar tire. This watch is the perfect compromise between purists who are passionate about motorsport and those who know how to stand out with a certain elegance. Equipped with Swiss Valjoux movement cal. 7750 very clean and with a fluorescent red oscillating weight, this timepiece with character with its strong identity, will surprise even the strongest personalities of this world. Titanic work by hand: 768 diamonds and 1 week of modeling, chiselling and setting work were required to make the case of the RT-008 Diamond Sun! Each of the courses for the 768 stones had to be created by hand. It is a job that requires great strength in the hands as well as extraordinary patience! A history of rocks: the diamond, the last crystalline form of carbon, forms in the earth’s mantle 150 km below our feet in 1-3 billion years! It then rises to the surface in the magma through volcanic vents. The arrangement of the stones around the nut recalls the shape of the sun … a sun made of titanium and diamonds. Sparkling by nature, it is under our star that the watch is sublimated, the rays pass through the hundreds of diamonds as they refract on their thousands of facets.



BVLGARI Mysterious Serpents High Jewelery


Powered by the in-house developed Piccolissimo micro-caliber, one of the smallest movements mechanisms never created, the secret Serpenti Misteriosi watch in rose gold combines exceptional know-how, the mastery of decorative elements and the expertise of Swiss watchmaking. This fascinating jewelry creation envelops the wrist in unique waves and is accompanied by turquoise elements, brilliant-cut diamonds and two bewitching rubellite eyes – a celebration of the passage of time. Mysterious Serpenti High Jewelery secret watch with mechanical manufacture micro-movement with automatic winding – BVL 100 caliber – 12.30 mm in diameter, 2.5 mm thick, a weight of 1.30 g, a power reserve of 30 hours and a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3 Hz). 40 mm 18 kt rose gold case and bracelet embellished with turquoise elements, brilliant cut diamonds and two pear cut rubellite eyes, dial set with diamonds.



CHOPARD Animal World Peacock


The house continues its extraordinary journey on the trail of the animal world, inviting a peacock to the party, reconnecting with this world of mystery, mischief and infinite beauty that made him so lucky. The pieces of the Animal World collection are miniature frescoes, dream stories. Each Totem animal, invested with the symbolic charge of it, represents a renewed challenge for sculptors, foundries, jewelers, polishers and other setters of the House. Thanks to an exceptional goldsmith skill, enhancing shapes, colors and materials, the artisans of the Chopard laboratories are able to give life to the animals of stones, air and gold that they shape by giving them gestures, expressions and emotions. The peacock is a fascinating animal with its fan-shaped tail that captivates with its multiple shaded velvety eyes, with blue pupils edged with deep green lashes. This solar wheel, a partition of Indian mythology, opens the mind to peaceful contemplation, to the fertility of ideas, to the regeneration of the Soul. The peacock feather is also a symbol of justice, because the balance of the plumage hangs by a thread and the weight can break it at the slightest breath. The peacock motif that wraps the tail in a lace plume around the bezel of this jewel watch perfectly embodies the immutable timepiece, the majestic thousand-eyed protector who knows all, who sees all. This animal charm, powered by an automatic movement, required 340 hours of study, sculpting and reworking by hand. Covered with about thirty small and thin feathers, the watch is adorned with 2,230 precious and semiprecious stones. Tourmalines, sapphires, tsavorites, Paraíba blue lazulites are studded with white, cognac, black and brown diamonds and are set in anodized titanium.



VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Floral Hours Cherry


Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch, pink gold, white gold, yellow and white diamonds, pink sapphires, white mother-of-pearl, miniature, self-winding mechanical movement with floral opening module for lateral hours and minutes. To pay homage to nature, which has fascinated it since 1906, the House was inspired by the concept of the flower clock (Horologium Florae), imagined by Carl Von Linné, in his book Philosophia Botanica in 1751. The Swedish botanist evokes a project for a hypothetical garden composed of a wide variety of plants whose flowers open and close at certain times of the day, thus indicating the time. Van Cleef & Arpels takes up this principle to give life to two original creations, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales and Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watches. Their three-dimensional dial depicts the passage of time with poetry, thanks to the opening and closing of 12 corollas. Reading the time then becomes a spectacle, as the flowers bloom and close, renewing the landscape of the dial every 60 minutes. To bring the dial to life, up to 166 elements come to life thanks to a module entirely developed by the artisans of the Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking workshops in Geneva. Each petal of this garden is articulated and connected to the clock mechanism, requiring meticulous assembly work. To the technical challenge represented by the association of many elements was added that of making it possible to open the flowers in three different sequences. At each time change, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination. The next day, the sequence of subsequent bouquets over the course of the hours will be different. So the eye has fun with new surprises, looking for the measure of time from buttons to corollas. The hour reading is complemented by a minute indication, visible through an opening on the edge of the case.



PIERRE DEROCHE Annual calendar of Grand Cliff Milady


It is around an annual calendar that Pierre DeRoche has chosen to design his new GrandCliff. Equipped with a Dubois Dépraz module, the GrandCliff Milady annual calendar benefits from a rapid correction of the date by means of the crown and of the month by means of a corrector. By opting for a 32 mm mechanism, and therefore for a large-diameter date disc, Pierre DeRoche offers a particularly generous date window and makes legibility one of the strengths of its annual calendar.



KF WATCHES EI8HT KF 09-08


The latest creation from the KF workshops, this 7.7838-carat creation highlights function of the whirlwind in a sparkling way. The setting of this grand complication, a unique octagonal case, dictated the name of the KF models: EI8HT. In faceted rose gold, this 42mm diameter case is set on the bezel and lugs. Echoing this aesthetic, the hands and flange for reading the time, also in rose gold set with diamonds, are arranged on a diamond dial. With its “nude” colored satin strap, this model, all in tenderness and brilliance, presents a tourbillon carriage that stands out both for the size of its opening and for the transparency of its mechanism. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal of the transparent caseback, which reveals the plate adorned with stars and diamonds. A mechanism that is all the more visible as it is built on pillars that allow it to embrace the glass on the back of the watch even more closely. Faithful to chronometric aspirations, the Novamag® 02 caliber highlights the function of the tourbillon. Visible thanks to its wide aperture at 6 o’clock, this 1-minute tourbillon is equipped with an escapement designed and developed 100% by Montres KF, like the rest of the movement that drives it. Upon arrival, a watch complying with the criteria of reinforced antimagnetism, entirely Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The tourbillon and balance stop functions are naturally accompanied by the hours and minutes displayed on the dial. A rarity in the industry, this caliber was designed and built around its balance wheel to meet pure chronometric performance. To do this, Karsten Frässdorf, the inventor of the Spirograph® balance wheel, has filed 5 patents. Allowing adjustment for inertia and temperature compensation, this unique balance wheel is accompanied by a non-indexing hairspring with an internal Grossman curve and an external Phillips curve.



An everyday tool, this tourbillon mechanism is water resistant to 50 meters. Beat the rhythm at the rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, guaranteeing optimal chronometric precision. This durable movement displays a theoretical 72-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run during this time period without having to be manually wound via the crown. However, in order to improve chronometric accuracy, this autonomy has been reduced to 45 hours thanks to the “Maltese Cross” mechanism, guaranteeing a more stable driving force. In response to technological developments, this new movement revisits standards in terms of resistance to magnetic fields. An important criterion when choosing a tourbillon. The Novamag® 02 therefore maintains its accuracy regardless of the environment. The reinforced anti-magnetism signed KF complies with the ISO 764-2020 standard established, as the code name indicates, in 2020. Therefore, not only the escapement but the entire movement and, more generally, the watch has the qualities of reinforced antimagnetism. Since the creation of the Maison, each timepiece has been designed according to the wishes of its buyer following the “Bespoke only” concept. The aesthetics of this new complication are therefore completely customizable.



HERMES Arceau Travel time


This 38mm diameter steel Arceau offers a new way to read the times of the world. The unique “time traveler” mechanism, developed exclusively for Hermès, displays 24 time zones via a circular disc and a moving counter. The unique 122-component module is assembled in a 4.4mm thickness. A true technical and aesthetic challenge, the “Le temps voyageur” complication is integrated into the self-winding mechanical movement produced by Hermès H1837.



Editorial coordination: Eyquem Pons




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