Through the good shots and, sometimes, even the less good ones, our restaurant critics tell their experience, present the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Théophile wine shop, in Saint-Bruno-de-Montarville.
Posted at 11:00
Why talk about it?
Many of you ask for addresses outside the island of Montreal for your restaurant outings. Especially since there are more and more options that are worth the detour. Located in Saint-Bruno-de-Montarvile, the Théophile wine shop has pleased us since our first visit, last winter, for several reasons: a proven chef, an inviting dining room, an interesting wine list and checked dishes. So we had to go back.
Who are they ?
Robin Filteau Boucher first became known by attending the show The bosses! then he performed in various clubs in the metropolis (Hà, Joséphine, Gypsy Kitchen + Bar). It is to him that the restaurateur Pierre-Vincent R. Lemieux and his partner Lyne Simard (Place Deschamps at Place des Arts, Le Parva café at the Grande Bibliothèque) have called to carry out their wine shop project in Promenades St-Bruno. The idea of leaving Montreal to develop a new concept on the South Shore really appealed to this Chambly native. Since the Théophile opened in the summer of 2021, he can count on a stable team, both in the dining room and in the kitchen.
A wine shop in a shopping center? Let’s just say I was asking to be convinced! Located in the Marché des Promenades section, the new gastronomic market in the area, Théophile has an independent entrance and a pretty and rather intimate terrace. It is easy to forget that we are surrounded by shops, especially since the design of the dining room – elegant, bright and modern – is signed by BlazysGerard.
Quite succinct, the menu varies according to the seasons and local arrivals. The chef makes it a point of honor to make everything at home, including focaccia – soft and crunchy with its parmesan topping -, ricotta, or even fresh pasta.
This attention to detail shows on the plate. The proposed compositions, all very well worked, tend more towards simplicity, with a few more inventive hints here and there.
The classic of this table, the raw, all delicately, went well on this warm August evening. Sea bream, cucumber and gherkins soaked in a rhubarb buttermilk juice (quite thin), which brings roundness and acidity, and caviar, for the salty touch!
We devoured the casarecce with lobster. The portion was very small, but the sauce, made with bisque and lobster butter, was delicious, as were the crustaceans, meaty and perfectly cooked, and the pasta fresh and meaty.
As a main course, the octopus tentacle, tender and grilled, is seasoned with a tasty emulsion of capers and a parsley salad topped with small marinated biquinho peppers, all crunchy to the bite. Nothing to say about the duck breast, very juicy. Its accompaniment is particularly successful: a two-way celeriac remoulade (cut into cubes and thinly sliced), sprinkled with chanterelles. The earthy aromas of mushrooms pair well with the root vegetable.
A quick word on desserts, completely seasonal, where fruit was the protagonist: pannacotta with thyme, with toasted peaches and apricot coulis, then madeleine and strawberry cream accompanied by a rather creative fruit salad (braised strawberries, marinated rhubarb and fresh raspberries ). This is the perfect ending to a flawless meal!
In our glass
Sommelier Samuel Vachon takes care of the wine list, inviting you to discover. It offers a refined selection by the glass and will appeal to both classic palates and more funky. Maitre d’Karelle Voyer gave us good advice and guided us to a very expressive fruit macerated Pinot Grigio from Willamette Valley, Oregon, and Nas del Gegant, a dark rosé from Catalonia, a true explosion of Red Fruits. As an aperitif, two refreshing cocktails: Le Viger, all green and dapper (gin Jardin Verde, cucumber, basil, celery syrup), and Joe Octave, very spicy and spicy (Vodka Cherry River wild cherry, ginger beer, sumac and kiwi, White pepper).
Yes, a plate of fresh pasta with lobster for $ 45 is amazing! In these times of inflation and rising food prices, this is undoubtedly the price to pay for quality homemade products. That said, there are cheaper options. Admissions range from $ 14 to $ 23; fresh pasta, $ 28 to $ 45; and mains, $ 35 to $ 41. You can also choose the Discovery menu for $ 80 per person (add $ 70 for wine pairing).
Good to know
The place is easily accessible for people with reduced mobility. It is possible to eat vegetarian without any problems, but vegan options are rarer.
Théophile is open from Tuesday to Saturday. Reservation recommended.
530 Boulevard des Promenades, Saint-Bruno-de-Montarville